Nicotinamide / Niacinamide / Vitamin B3

Nicotinamide/Niacinamide/Vitamin B3

INCI: Niacinamide

Niacinamide or nicotinamide is a water-soluble vitamin, being the amide of vitamin B3 (niacin). This white powder is highly sought after in cosmetics and is suitable for all skin types. It is most commonly used in skincare products for skin prone to acne and pimples, enlarged pores, and in anti-aging care, as it improves skin texture*. It also performs excellently in products for reducing skin hyperpigmentation**, such as age spots and sunspots. It also helps improve skin hydration*** and in cases of skin inflammation, including rosacea, psoriasis, and seborrhea.

*Studies in humans have shown that niacinamide stimulates new fibroblasts by 20% and collagen production by as much as 54%.
**Studies have shown that niacinamide does not inhibit melanin formation, but rather inhibits the process of melanosome transfer to surrounding keratinocytes by up to 68%. A clinical study conducted over 8 weeks containing a product with 5% niacinamide showed significant improvement of age spots around the eyes and on the cheeks.
**Studies have shown that cosmetic products containing 2% niacinamide reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by as much as 24% within 4 weeks.

Used in care products for: acne-prone and oily skin, mature skin, skin with hyperpigmentation, skin problems, inflamed skin,…

Solubility: in the water phase

Usage: 1-5% (1-2% for hydration, 4-5% for hyperpigmentation or acne)

Simple moisturising serum with niacinamide (30 g)

 1. VERSION WITH LEUCIDAL:

Ingredients:
1.5 g niacinamide (5 %)

1.2 g glycerin (4 %)

1.2 g Leucidal (4 %)

26.1 g hydrolat or distilled water (87 %)

(optional: 1 drop essential oil + 1 drop Solubол – for dissolving EO)

2. VERSION WITH COSGARD:

Ingredients:
1.5 g niacinamide (5 %)

1.2 g glycerin (4 %)

26.9 g hydrolat or distilled water (89.7 %)

0.3 g Cosgard (1 %)

(optional: 1 drop essential oil + 1 drop Solubol – for dissolving EO)

Preparation instructions:
Disinfection
– Clean and sanitise all equipment and packaging with 70% alcohol.

Dissolve niacinamide
– Dissolve niacinamide in a small amount of water (taken from the total weight). Stir until completely dissolved.

Combine the water phase
– In a larger container, mix the remaining hydrolat/water with glycerin. Add the dissolved niacinamide and mix well.

Add Leucidal/Cosgard
– Stir in Leucidal or Cosgard and mix well again.

(Optional) Add essential oil
– If using, dissolve 1 drop of EO in 1 drop of Solubiliser - Dermofeel G 10 LW 70  and add to the serum. Mix until homogeneous.

Check and adjust pH if necessary
– Leucidal works best at pH 4–6. Cosgard between 5 and 6. Aim for pH ~5.5.
– If necessary, use lactic acid (to lower pH) or a baking soda solution (to raise it).

Transfer to packaging
– Use a dropper bottle or pump bottle. Label with the date and product name.

ℹ️ Shelf life:
3 months, stored in a cool place.

If you add plant hydrolats without an additional preservative, I recommend storing in the refrigerator.