Vitamin C powder

INCI: L-ascorbic acid

L-ascorbic acid, also known as vitamin C, is a water-soluble vitamin that plays an important role in various biological functions, including collagen synthesis, antioxidant protection, and immune system function.

In cosmetics, L-ascorbic acid is commonly used as an active ingredient in anti-aging and brightening products. It can help improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, fade hyperpigmentation and age spots, and brighten dull skin. L-ascorbic acid works by boosting collagen production and reducing the activity of tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production.

However, L-ascorbic acid is highly unstable and easily degrades upon exposure to light, air, and heat. It is therefore often formulated with stabilizers such as vitamin E, ferulic acid, and other antioxidants to improve its stability and efficacy. Additionally, L-ascorbic acid can irritate some individuals, particularly those with sensitive skin, so it is important to use it in moderation and perform a patch test first.

L-ascorbic acid is commonly used in cosmetics at concentrations ranging from 5% to 20%, although higher concentrations may be used in professional treatments.

At lower concentrations, such as 5 to 10%, L-ascorbic acid is often used in everyday skincare products such as serums, moisturizers, and eye creams to provide antioxidant protection, stimulate collagen production, and improve skin texture and tone.

At higher concentrations, such as 15% to 20%, L-ascorbic acid is often used in more targeted treatments such as peels and masks for more intensive brightening and anti-aging effects. However, higher concentrations can also increase the risk of skin irritation and sensitivity, so it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions and perform a patch test first.

It is worth noting that the effectiveness of L-ascorbic acid may also depend on other factors, such as the pH of the formulation and the presence of other ingredients that can affect its stability and absorption into the skin. It is therefore important to choose products formulated with stabilized L-ascorbic acid and to consult a skincare professional for personalized advice on how to incorporate it into your skincare routine.

Formulation for a cream:

Ingredients:

1.5 grams of vitamin C powder
60 grams of distilled water
20 grams of emulsifying wax
50 grams of almond oil
20 grams of shea butter
1 gram of vitamin E oil and 0.8g preservative - Cosgard
Optional: a few drops of essential oils for fragrance (for example lavender or peppermint)

Instructions:

In a small bowl, dissolve the vitamin C powder in the distilled water. Stir until completely dissolved.
In a heatproof container over hot water, melt together the emulsifying wax, almond oil, and shea butter. Stir occasionally until completely melted.
Remove the mixture from the heat and allow to cool for a few minutes.
While stirring constantly, slowly add the distilled water (previously heated to the same temperature as the melted oil ingredients, but max 70 degrees Celsius) to the melted mixture and mix well until the water and oil phases combine. When the mixture cools to 35 - 40 degrees Celsius, stir in the vitamin C solution, vitamin E, and preservative. Measure the pH and adjust if necessary.
Optional: add a few drops of essential oils for fragrance and stir.
Allow the mixture to cool while stirring continuously.
Pour the mixture into a clean, airtight container. Store in a cool and dry place, away from direct sunlight.
Note: Emulsifying wax helps combine the oil and water ingredients in the cream and creates a smooth and stable texture.

Suggestion: Instead of distilled water, you can also use a hydrolat that suits your skin.

Before use, always test the cream on a small area of skin, i.e. perform a sensitivity test.