Bisabolol – A Gentle Active for Sensitive Skin

Bisabolol occurs naturally in several plants, including German chamomile (Matricaria recutita).

In cosmetic formulation it is valued for its gentle sensory profile and its suitability for products designed with sensitive skin in mind.

Tovarna Organika offers natural alpha-bisabolol, INCI Bisabolol.

It is a colourless to pale-yellow viscous liquid with a mild scent. It is soluble in oils and alcohol but practically insoluble in water.

How much should be used?

The recommended use level for Tovarna Organika Bisabolol is approximately 0.1–0.5%.

It can be incorporated into:

• creams and lotions,
• facial oils,
• balms,
• after-shave products,
• lip-care products,
• after-sun formulations,
• deodorants,
• makeup.

How should bisabolol be incorporated?

Bisabolol is oil- and alcohol-soluble and is almost insoluble in water.

In emulsions it is best incorporated during the cool-down phase, as the ingredient is heat sensitive.

In anhydrous formulations it can simply be blended directly into the oil phase.

Calm Drop – Bisabolol Facial Oil Serum

A simple anhydrous serum for gentle facial care

Ingredients for 30 g

• 20.85 g squalane – 69.5%
• 8.85 g jojoba oil – 29.5%
• 0.15 g bisabolol – 0.5%
• 0.15 g vitamin E – 0.5%

Total: 30 g / 100%

Method

1. Combine the squalane and jojoba oil in a clean, completely dry container.
2. Add the bisabolol.
3. Add vitamin E.
4. Mix thoroughly.
5. Transfer into a clean dropper or pump bottle.

Because the formulation contains no water, a conventional broad-spectrum preservative is not required.

Use

Apply 2–3 drops to cleansed skin and gently spread over the face.

Use on its own or as the final step after a water-based serum or moisturiser.

Patch testing a new formulation on a small area of skin is always recommended.

Small concentration, valuable formulation tool

Bisabolol is a good example of an active where more is not necessarily better.

At low use levels it can be a useful addition when the aim is to create a minimalist, elegant and gentle formulation for sensitive skin.